Today we cycled from the Stillwater Lake Campground via Whitefish to the Lasalle RV Park. We had clouds all day, it was chilly and cold at times, and after setting up the tent it started to rain. We rode on non-paved roads until Whitefish, from there it was paved.

Riding statistics: on Monday, June 17, 2024, day 48 on the route, it took 07:31h (04:39h moving time), between 6:50 and 2:21, to cover 70 km (43 miles), including 728 m (2389 ft) elevation gain, with an average speed of 15.0 km/h (9.3 mph), while reaching a maximum speed of 48 km/h (29.8 mph). During this ride the average temperature was 8 °C (46 °F) with a minimum of 2 °C (36 °F) and a maximum of 14 °C (57 °F).

Totals: it took 12 days, 8 hours, 40 minutes, and 9 seconds of cycling time to cover 4312 km (2679 miles), including 47660 m (156372 ft) elevation gain, with an average speed of 14.8 km/h (9.2 mph).


Stepping out of the tent this morning, the air had a sharp, unexpected bite, no frost on the fabric, but the cold was unmistakable. We packed up quickly, eager to warm ourselves with movement. Our route picked up where we left off yesterday, following a rugged double-track road that rolled up and down in relentless waves. The effort was worth it, though; by the time we’d covered the nearly 10 kilometers to the highway, the sun had climbed higher, and so had our body temperature.

Crossing the highway, we faced a gradual 500-meter ascent. The climb was gentle, and the gravel road beneath us was in surprisingly good condition. As we gained elevation, the landscape opened up, revealing the northern edge of Whitefish Lake. A thrilling downhill later, we found ourselves skirting the lake’s tranquil shores. From there, it was a smooth 10-kilometer ride on paved roads into downtown Whitefish.

Our first stop was Glacier Cyclery and Nordic, where we’d arranged to pick up bike boxes for our upcoming flight. The staff had everything ready, so we decided to fuel up with a late breakfast before returning. Just next door, Loula’s Cafe welcomed us with familiar warmth, I’d eaten there on my previous visit, and we savored a hearty meal before heading back to collect the boxes.

With the boxes in hand (even folded, they were bulky), I opted for quieter back roads to avoid the bustle. Fourty minutes later, we rolled into Lasalle RV Park. The office was closed, but a staff member inside spotted us and called over the owner, who was already on his way. He confirmed there was plenty of space for our tents, and we agreed to settle up the next morning when the office reopened.

I took a chance and asked if he knew anyone with a truck who could give us, and our boxes, a lift to the airport. It’s only a 10-minute drive, but a huge convenience. To our delight, he offered to drive us himself or send someone from the team. What a relief! Now we could pack and prepare at our leisure on Tuesday, instead of scrambling at the airport on Wednesday morning.

As the afternoon faded, we decided to cycle the 5 kilometers to Columbia Falls for dinner at Backslope Brewing. Without our panniers and with a nearly empty frame bag, the bike felt almost weightless. We enjoyed a delicious bowl of local fare and a cold beer, the perfect end to a day of cycling and problem-solving.

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